If the drain plug was located midway on the lower unit torpedo (about midway along the skeg) then you have no choice: you must disassemble the unit because the screw will interfere with the gears and dog clutch causing major damage. The right way is to disassemble the lower unit and take out the plug or plugs.
If you are a gambling man, just leave it.-That's the wrong way. It can not get into the forward gear bearing because the gap in the races is too small. If the screw is definitely inside the lower unit: If the drain plug was located on the lower nose in front of the skeg, (where they usually are) it went into an area where there is nothing for it to interfere with. Well, you have three choices: The right way, the wromg way, and my way! LOL The tool is available at Graingers catalog and Fastenal might have it, but it probably costs around 45-50 bucks.
A machine shop can do it in 5 minutes they have the special spotface and pilot tool but I don't know what they would charge. You can re-thread to 3/8 X 16 to fit the fill and vent plugs but then you need to spot face the housing to provide a flat place for the gasket to seal. If you go with either 5/16 or NPT threads, be sure to use teflon tape on the plug. Do it in stages to see where the best depth ends up-you want the plug to be flush to slightly above the gearcase surface. Don't tap too deeply as NPT threads are tapered and if you go too far, the plug which is also tapered will not seal. But before you do this, be sure you can buy a Stainless Steel or brass plug-preferably with a hex socket head. If the 5/16 doesn't fit properly, it is small enough that you can re-tap the hole to 1/4 NPT. there is plenty of meat to work with there. Chrysler and Force used three different drain plugs in this lower unit 5/16 socket head set screw, 1/4 NPTwith a straight screwdriver slot and 3/8 X 16 just like the fill and vent plugs.
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